Old station building, apple tree and Ruby (our motorhome)
Sunday morning (2nd June) we left our tapas town and crossed the border. It’s always a surprise when we first notice, we’ve lost an hour travelling into Spain from Portugal. Portugal is in the same time zone as Ireland but Spain and France (and the rest) are an hour ahead. How do people on the border see time? Probably differently to us. How do you meet friends? Does the Spanish friend happily gain an hour extra in bed which they lose later when they have to go back over the border home? I don’t know.
Beautiful lunch view from the motorway services near Vigo, Spain
We would be travelling on motorways again today and we happened to stop at a motorway services with beautiful views. So often the services are named for the beautiful thing nearby but you never actually see the beautiful thing from there. Like the one near St Mont Michel, there’s no view but they do have a huge photo of the island on a wall in the cafe. In Spain at the services near Vigo there’s a view of the bay and the surrounding hills dotted with houses. We just had to stop.
On the first day of our trip we saw this picture instead of a view of Mont Saint Michel at the motorway services of the same name
We also passed Santiago de Compostela – the end point of the Spanish Camino. We could just make out the twin spires of the cathedral in amongst the buildings of the town. It seemed like we may have the the local council to thank for deciding that no building would be taller than the cathedral, making it possible for all to see the old building from the motorway.
Plenty of shade for a walk
Our spot for the night was near the town of Ordes, not much further on and we were driving along narrow roads to an old railway station. We parked up and were soothed and surrounded by nature all around – grass, trees, shrubs and flowers. It was hot but also shaded so we went for a walk along the greenway and it was so quiet – only bird song and a couple of electric trains. Although the station and the railway line was no longer functioning, there was an electric train on a track high up in the trees. It was disconcerting at first to hear the train while walking on the track – grass covered with no actual tracks. Your brain goes to: There’s a train coming, get off the track! But your eyes discover: That’s ok, it’s up in the trees.
The old train line below, the electric above
When we got back to the van we were very well disposed to this parking place and we noticed a shady corner with trees near one of the parking bays. We immediately took the opportunity to move. The van was still out in the sun but we could set ourselves up under the trees. Bliss. My tablecloth (from Sines) got its first outing as we settled down to lunch. There were lots of locals taking advantage of the area including what might have been a scout troop running their own sports day. We were very contented under the trees in the shade until nightfall.
Making ourselves at home under the pear tree
The next morning we were a bit groggy, the time zone change does that and the clock seemed to wake us too early. We had a lazy breakfast but we couldn’t stay long. For one thing there’s a 24 hour limit on parking and for another the temperature was rising. Time to head for the coast again.
Route via red dots from northern Portugal to the old railway station near Ordes in northern Spain
Stork’s nest in Alcácer do Sal reminded me of peace in 2019
Saturday 1st June we left Sines very grateful for the free parking space and the cool breeze that kept the temperatures below 21 degrees for our entire stay. We were heading north but there were no other cool spots on the way. The best we could hope for was that by the time we had reached our destination the sun would have started setting.
An old tram in Lisbon (April 2019)
This would be a full day’s drive, getting to our next overnight stop on the border with Spain in time for dinner. We were passing all the places we would have loved to visit, places we had been to in a different year and were looking forward to seeing again but not this year, maybe next year or maybe not for a long time. As we spent all day in the van this post is filled with photos from past trips to these places, a trip through time…
Renting electric scooters, Lisbon April 2019
Like Alcácer do Sal with its narrow shady streets, small museum, riverside cafes, multiple restaurants and a nice campsite (with washing machine!) near two supermarkets – everything within reach.
Nata making in the window of a cafe
And Lisbon, the capital city where we stayed in the huge campsite and I took a bus to the train into the city the year I attended a creativity course. Where the nuns in the monastery invented Pastel de Nata’s and they are still baked daily nearby.
Mafra cathedral and Palace (April 2019)
Or Mafra with its huge cathedral with 4 (or maybe 5) church organs and attached palace now a museum.
Alcobaça Cathedral (April 2019)
And Alcobaça with an equally huge cathedral and instead of a palace an almost empty monastery attached. Where an artist was repainting the life size statue of Jesus on the cross.
The city of Porto where we went on a food tour in 2023 has always been a location with a more moderate climate and we love it but even Porto was baking in the heat so we drove past getting little glimpses of the bridges in the distance.
Porto – food tour 2023
Aveiro where we parked by the train station and took a train to Porto for the food tour. The colourful town with Venetian style boats and coloured ribbons instead of locks proclaiming love on their many bridges.
Aveiro (May 2023)
The town – Vila Nova de Cerveira – our destination on the Spanish-Portuguese border may not have been cool in temperature but it has the coolest tapas. So we were willing to risk higher temperatures!
We forgot to take photos of our tapas… so even the food is a memory. From April 2019 brunch in Porto!
The first thing we did when we arrived was to walk in the blazing sun (the sun hadn’t set just yet…) from the car park to the restaurant to book a table for later. This place is so popular with the locals, and possibly the Spanish from over the border, that we were concerned we might miss the prize we had risked the heat for. Table booked we sat in a shaded courtyard with a cold drink reading.
Vila Nova de Cerveira with Spain on the other side of the river with cool breezes as the sun sets
After dinner the sun had set but it was still warm enough to sit by the river (which borders north Portugal and Spain) and appreciate the natural air conditioning coming off the water. Tomorrow we would travel a couple of hours into Spain just north of Santiago de Compostela to a parking spot at a greenway, Via Verde. The temperatures were forecast to be a max of 25 degrees on Sunday going up to 28 degrees on Monday. We would only be staying one night on our route north. All manner of things are well.
Route via green dots from Sines to Vila Nova de Cerveira and some of the places we didn’t stopat along the way!
Sorry about the confusion with the catch up over the last few days – almost up to date. This post brings you from Seville, in southern Spain to the town of Sines on the west coast of Portugal. From Friday 24th to Friday 31st May…
Figs growing in Albufeira
We left the lovely man in La Puebla de Cazallla with the cafe and hot garlic chicken rolls early on Friday morning and drove a couple of hours to Seville. We needed groceries and there is a big supermarket in Seville. We also had some calls to make and needed to be sure the data was good. The last time we were in Seville it was so hot I vowed never to return… Yes this going to Seville would bring us deeper into the heat but we had a plan. If we left early enough and had everything done by lunchtime all would be well. And it nearly worked. The traffic around Seville on a Friday broke the plan but we eventually made it to our evening stop at a seafood restaurant where I had fresh anchovies, for the first time and Denis had swordfish. Next morning we left very early again and crossed the border to Portugal where the breeze was very welcome.
Evening in Albuferia
We stopped at the border town of Castro Marin to taste our first Portuguese nata of the trip but we didn’t factor in the time difference between Spain and Portugal – it was still only 8.15am – the cafe was closed. Sadly we had to move on. But only as far as a supermarket on the outskirts the town of Tavira. We got the nicest welcome we’d had for a while as we drank our coffee and ate our nata pastries for €4. Go to Portugal: For the people and the natas and the bargains. That night we stayed at a motorhome site beside the train tracks. Next morning we moved on to Albuferia. It was now Sunday and Denis needed to stay in one place for meetings this week. We booked in at a campsite outside the town for 5 nights. But despite the Portuguese breeze this was an unbelievably hot week.
The train is very close to us (from 2022) – Tavira motorhome park
On the morning of Friday 31st May at 8.30am, we left Albuferia. The temperature was already 24 degrees, our air conditioning was still not working so we did what people did before air conditioning was a thing – opened the windows. Yes it was noisy and yes everything not nailed down blew around in the back but it worked. The previous day had been the hottest, we survived with frozen peas, ice cream and finding out the little camping supermarket had air conditioning. We had been going in there every day for groceries or our morning coffee but it didn’t dawn on us to sit inside where it was cooler. We spend a lot of time in there, soaking up the delicious cold air.
The machine on the Portuguese border where you register for automatic toll collection for foreign vehicles
In an attempt to take some control over our heat problem we had searched the weather forecasting app for places where the temperature would be more comfortable. Which led us to the northern Spanish coast. That’s a long way from the south of Portugal – eight hours of driving. It seemed a bit too much.
Here’s the weather app when we arrived at Sines
Then our luck changed and we spotted one place where the temperature didn’t go above 21 degrees. It was hard to believe at first because to its north, south and east the temperatures were soaring but in this town it was a constant 21 degrees. Could this be true? Was it a glitch in the app? It was only a two hour drive so if the app had got it wrong we would keep driving north but if the app was right then within 2 hours we would be blissfully cool. We had to try it.
Special spot in Sines supermarket car park!
And it was true! It was like a miracle, a mirage, the temperatures started to slowly decrease when we were within five minutes of the town of Sines on the Portuguese west coast. We needed to stop at the supermarket before finding some kind of parking near the water – for the breeze. But when we arrived at the supermarket there was a cool breeze blowing there. Heaven. It seemed no matter where you go in Sines the temperature is comfortable. I could feel myself coming back to normal.
Portuguese craft magazines
In the supermarket I bought a couple of Portuguese craft magazines (impossible to even guess at a translation but great pictures). Denis bought a tape measure with only centimetre measurements – a dream of his for a while and not available in Ireland (ours are centimetre and inches) – who knew? I bought a plastic tablecloth for our folding table, unused since we arrived but now with the potential for cooler weather I was very hopeful for eating/crafting/reading experiences outside.
Only centimeters..
We stayed at the supermarket parking and opened all the windows to let in the breeze. Everything was going to be alright. Yes there were compressors running all night and yes the delivery truck arrived at 6am but it was cool. All is well.
And then we were back in Vila Nova de Cerveira (you’ll be needing my map for this one…) for the night. Travelling the way we do means we often have problems challenges to work out. Our attitude when one of these challenges arises is key to getting through it without killing each other life changing consequences. So whenever we solve something like the lack of strong data we celebrate with a high five or an extra coffee or even a meal out.
My Aubergine gratin and behind it Denis’ mushrooms in lemon with a little cheese grated on top
We found (thank you google maps) a great tapas restaurant called Curt’isso in Vila Nova de Cerveira. Tapas is a Spanish thing and it means a small snack but they are so much more. They are usually small but small is a relative measure so you can end up very easily ordering too much. I suppose it’s like getting lots of starters instead of one big meal. They can be cold or hot, simple or exotic. I love it. It’s difficult but I always try to start with one and order a second if I’m still hungry. Denis does something else…
Denis’ fried potatoes with two different dips, one tomato the other possibly red pepper
Anyway we decided to celebrate and go to Curt’isso and we were not disappointed. Every dish was different and my mouth is watering just thinking about them now. Denis was a little disappointed because he couldn’t finish… he ordered 4, hmmm.
My sardine on pesto bruschetta. Look at me eating fish!
Next day we head for Spain and the city of Pontevedra (see map below) and would you believe we have a problem again with data. So off we go along the inlet to what turns out to be a beautiful place called Poio. The data there was great and at the end of the day we returned to the city.
Denis’ falafel
Unfortunately, there was a new problem when we arrived back – no space at the motorhome parking. Made worse by the fact that we had received a recommendation for a tapas place from a local and we had been imagining all day rushing off to dinner the moment we arrived back. But no… we had to drive on. And on. Two hours later we arrived at a car park in the Camino city of Santiago de Compostela! (Hello Helena!)
This is the only picture we took in Santiago de Compostela at Cafe Bar 13. Denis had scallops and I had a potato, chorizo and fried egg dish
Fortunately for us the Spanish eat late. We were sitting down to our celebratory tapas dinner at 10pm. The following night we had breakfast cereal for dinner. Living the dream.
My map is suffering from lack of advance planning. I may have to move to Map Edition 2. Also, I seem to have hugely underestimated the size of north west Spain. Plus, there’s a very attractive and large inlet missing at Vila Nova de Cerveira and another at Pontevedra… map making is not without its own challenges
We arrived at the border town of Vila Nova de Cerveira and we thought this would be our last full day in Portugal. We were already missing the people and their natas and then we had to go to Spain for the day. Bear with me while I try to sound like I know what I’m talking about, there are technical reasons.
See that tower on the hill? That makes working on the journey possible
Ok so 4G and 5G data for mobile phones can do something interesting that the 2G and 3G can’t do and it’s especially useful at borders. They can decide in which direction or how strong they want to send their signal. So today we are in Portugal and we are accidentally getting Spanish data service. Unfortunately it’s just not very strong Spanish data.
The beautiful Atlantic
That might be because they don’t want to be sending strong data across the border and away from their customers… But for some reason this data from Spain has meant the Portuguese data is gone. So… we have to move to Spain for Denis to work and take video calls.
Santiago de Compostela this way
We found a place about twenty minutes over the bridge and around the headland facing the Atlantic. We weren’t expecting much except better data which we got… but we also got amazing views! Plus, we’re parked beside a Camino path so we see pilgrims passing by. They have another 160km to walk to their destination of Santiago de Compostela.
The pilgrims path gets rough very soon
We feel very lucky. We’ll be back in Vila Nova de Cerveira tonight and we’ll get our last Portuguese coffee in the morning but for now we are breathing in this amazing Atlantic air.
We were off and the first thing we learned was Clara knows Ireland! She once visited her brother who works in Dublin. Both she and he love Dublin. I was chatting with a friend on emails about how we Irish always think we’re going to meet a neighbour (or cousin or someone who knows someone) who just happens to be in the same county on holidays at the same time as us… And here we were in almost that situation… no, not exactly but you know we are going to look up her brother.
Casanatal and the back of Clara’s head!
Our tour was off to a great start, we were now discussing how very alike the Irish and Portuguese are, something I have believed for a while. We’re very friendly, curious, interested, maybe even a bit nosey? We’re a bit, sure it’ll be grand, no rush, have another cup of tea – the Portuguese love tea too. But Clara insisted we really had to get on with the tour so we did. First stop was an old fashioned grocery store. It was a small exquisitely cared for space. There was fruit, nuts, sweets, wine, port, tins of sardines and chocolate. All Portuguese products.
Love this shop!
Clara explained that these shops have had approaches from big food companies interested in buying their property in order to put in a fast food (or other) outlet. We felt very grateful that this hadn’t happened and we could stand in a place that had served generations in Porto. But I can imagine these shops and others like them in cities all over the world won’t be here forever, especially if we’re not buying from them, supporting them.
Marriage… I think that’s what the shop owner said this was called
Then we were off to the Bolhão market. This farmers and producers market has been closed for renovations for three years but now it’s back in business and it’s busy. Everyone seems very happy to be back. The market building itself is open to the air but the market stalls are covered. This makes for a very pleasant visit, no fishy smells and protection if it rains. One thing we noticed was plenty of people sitting around eating and soaking up the atmosphere.
From upstairs looking down into the Bolhão market
This is the market where I wanted to ask lots of questions about how I should behave in general at markets. Like, Can I take pictures? How will I cook unfamiliar foods? Will they gut the fish? The big answer is, Don’t be afraid to make mistakes! That’s actually the answer to most of my questions about behaviour… but maybe that’s not just me. The gist of what Clara said was, Just open your heart, trust your voice and ask. Most people will speak English or the other shoppers will help. And yes, it’s ok to take pictures. The stall holders are so passionate about their produce that they are happy to help in ways that allow you to support them. They won’t be here either if we don’t buy from them, support them.
Sacks of beans
Minerva have been canning sardines (and other fish) in a Portugal since 1942. I had to admit I thought all the tins of sardines were just for decoration. Well, they are very attractive, but no, they are also for eating. We tasted tuna in olive oil and it was very good. The lady who was giving the tasting loved her product and that made the visit very enjoyable. Clara’s other job is in advertising or maybe it was marketing… anyway, we had a very interesting conversation about packaging. Packaging helps us buy and support producers. I love Minerva’s packaging.
Since 1942
We also visited the Portuguese chocolate shop, Casa do Chocolate, where I had a caramel chocolate (yum!) and the Pastel de Nata bakery where I had another lovely nata… cannot get enough of the natas.
One is never enough
What do you get when you cross a chemist with a painter? Meia Dúzia! Here we tasted the food created by a chemist who was a painter in his spare time. His creation looks like paint. This tasting was the most fun and really appealed to me because I never feel creative when it’s time to make dinner but… ingredients that look like I’m about to play with paint? I can enjoy that! You are probably familiar with a crushed garlic product that you get in a plastic tube? Well this is much more interesting. There were over 30 different tubes of things like olive paste or chocolate orange or fig. We tasted most of them! There wasn’t one I didn’t like. And all made with Portuguese produce.
Paint? No! And it’s okay to play with your food!
Our last visit was to a tiny restaurant where we chatted about writing, poets in Portugal, history including the dictatorship that lasted for 50 years in Portugal and ended in 1974, when the dictator died, followed by a peaceful revolution. And while we chatted we ate threes different types of ham, three different types of bread and olive oil. And then it was all over. We were sad to say goodbye to Clara, she had made our visit to Porto so enjoyable and we won’t forget her… and we’ll definitely be looking up her brother.
Two types of bread, Bacalhau (cod fish cake) and olive oil. The brown bread tasted like fudge to me. Lots of villages in Portugal seems to have their own version of bread
Clara pointed us in the direction of São Bento and we rambled down the steep hill. We were tired and ready for bed but it was only 3.30pm and we had a train journey to take first.
Clara’s route to São Bento had the best view
At the station we saw a photo exhibition with photos from journalists taken in 1974 on the day of the peaceful revolution. One showed two soldiers with rifles and in the muzzle of each gun was a carnation. Clara had told us earlier that the people wanted democracy and the army were fed up fighting with their own so when someone put flowers in their guns, they didn’t stop them. Freedom Day is celebrated on the 25 of April each year.
Photograph in the station. Can you see the carnation?
The train driver got off the train again on the way home but this time we knew what to do – wait, soon you will be going in a different direction. We loved our tour with Clara in Porto. I know what to do in the markets and on the trains and I know flowers can be powerful.
As I was saying yesterday we were parked right beside the train station. We had our tickets and we were ready to go so we got up early-ish and got the 9:18am train. But not before taking some pictures of the old station. (beautiful blue tiles) Then off we went delighted with ourselves. Very soon we realized we were sitting on the wrong side of the train… every seat on the left side going towards Porto was full, we were sitting on the right side. That’s the side the sun was pouring in… we were soon roasted, but grand.
Can you see the sun shining in on us?
Within an hour we had arrived in Porto at a station called Campanhã and then the train driver got out – a bit disconcerting. We were supposed to be going to Saõ Bento. You know how it is, you’re watching everybody else wondering what they are going to do? Asking yourself, “is this really the last stop?” And then the train started up again and we were going backwards… into Porto.
Train lines around Porto… never know when you might need it!
We saw some beautiful views over the river including the bridges but I wasn’t able to take pictures because like I said, we were sitting on the wrong side of the train. But, it was spectacular. If you ever go to Porto get on one of the trains that go over the river, any of the trains and any of the bridges. Also there’s a walking bridge that has a metro line running on it too. Walk on that one too. I’ll see if I can find the name of the bridge and the metro line. (It’s the Don Luis I Bridge Metro Yellow or D line.) There are amazing views of Porto from that bridge.
São Bento train station
Now we were in the train station at Saõ Bento in Porto and we had until 12.30pm to wait for our tour. We had decided not to have breakfast or coffee, we wouldn’t eat anything until the tour because it’s a food tour, there will be food… oh I nearly forgot Saõ Bento station is impressive and it’s worth taking a moment to look at the blue tiles covering the walls of the big hall at the entrance. Lots of people are doing the same thing – just standing there taking pictures. Then we walk out of the station and see the most people we’ve seen in one place for years! Literally. The streets are jampacked… we look at each other and decide to change our minds about the no coffee and sit at the first free seat in a cafe across the road from the station.
Took this as soon as I sat down but it doesn’t properly depict the crowds…
Denis went in to order coffee and a nata while I kept myself busy watching dodgy looking characters. There would be no leaving my bag, nonchalantly on a chair here. To be honest I saw nothing out of the ordinary but my nervous system was indeed on full alert. Probably didn’t need the coffee then… hmmm.
Looking up was more calming…
After coffee, we headed off to Trinidad station (to meet our guide) just walking the streets of Porto is so nice and was very comfortable. Not every part of the center was as busy as the station and it was a beautiful day, not too hot in the shade with a nice breeze. We spent time in a book/stationery shop and I got a book of poems from the Portuguese poet, Fernando Pessoa and Denis bought a phone cover.
Yes I love some self analysis
It was time to meet our guide, Clara, she had sent me a WhatsApp earlier and we were to meet up outside a cafe near the Trindade train station. We were supposed be waiting outside the café but it was hot so we were waiting in the shade and we could see the cafe in the distance. It wasn’t long before I realised that she may also be waiting in the shade somewhere and we really better go stand outside the cafe… in the hot sun.
This beautiful building on route to Trindade is a seed shop
Almost immediately I saw someone who couldbe our guide, I went up to her and said, “are you Clara?” No it wasn’t Clara, the clues were, her lack of response and the fact that she was vaping. Fortunately, at that very moment, a friendly voice said, “hi, I’m Clara, are you waiting for a Clara?” Clara had a huge smile and shook hands confidently and I thought, yes, I picked the right tour. The power of first impressions.
Beautiful cafe/hotel… forgot to look at the name, sorry
Remember when we were in Vila Nova de Milifontes? And I got the the idea for some kind of tour that would help me navigate food markets. Well, there were hundreds of food related tours you can go on in Porto and there are thousands of reviews. A lot of information to wade through and choose. So I chose the one that felt right… having no idea if this tour would do the trick but trusting it would be grand.
Famous Majestic Cafe, there’s usually a queue
So here we are with Clara and she sets off at a quick pace with the two of us tagging along. You know how it is when you’re in a new place and every junction needs to be paused at just in case you’re going the wrong way? And more importantly you need to look both ways twice because you’ve forgotten again which way the traffic flows? Well, Clara always knew where she was going and was confidently walking across junctions. And I was happily trusting her with my life. (Yes, I did secretly look both ways, ready to grab her if she missed something speeding in her direction, did I mention my on full alert nervous system?)
Well, we did the food tour in Porto and had a really great time! It’s been a long time since we were in a big city and you forget how exhausting it can be. Not just the walking, the talking, the stepping around people, the finding your way, the eating. Full-on days need quiet days. Will tell you all about Porto soon but first I need to tell you about the town of Batalha. We went there last Wednesday.
The Cathedral at Batalha
There’s a huge monastery and cathedral in Batalha built in the 14th century. It is one of the most important Gothic sites in Portugal and one of the most visited monuments. And that’s not a surprise, it is very impressive.
Cleaning has started on the magnificent door to the cathedral
On the way out (as we exited through the shop) a book title in the display caught my attention. Does that say, Murphy? Well of course, I had to check, is this Irish? From inside the cover I read, Murphy is an academic journal architectural history and theory published once a year in Portuguese and English by the Impress da Universidade de Coimbra. (Oldest University in Portugal.)
The Murphy book…
It went on to say the name comes from an Irish born architect, who was the first to promote Portuguese architecture to the rest of the world. James Cavanagh Murphy came to Portugal to study the architecture at Batalha and his drawings of the monastery were published in the 1700’s. Imagine that!
Every approach to the building is impressive
There was no more about James in the book but I searched the internet and… James Murphy was born in Blackrock, Co. Cork (well, of course he was) in 1760 and was a brick layer. He loved drawing and went to Dublin to study either drawing or architecture. He seemed to have a natural ability in drawing. He was involved in work on the House of Commons and the building near Trinity College Dublin that became a bank.
Can you see the cleaned section of “rope”?
When he was 28 he was commissioned by an Irish politician called William Burton Conyngham, to make drawings of the monastery here at Batalha. James Murphy seems to have travelled back and forth from Ireland to Spain and Portugal studying and drawing beautiful buildings for the rest of his life. What a lovely way of life.
The restorers are in the middle of cleaning/restoring the monuments at the moment. The cleaned stone looks great and really sparkles but I also love the grubby stone, it reminds me it has been here a long time and it’s not perfect.
Closeup grubby, background sparkling
On a different topic… Do you see the captions on my photos? My friend Yvonne has noticed that the captions are not being added to my photos in emails from WordPress. This makes me sad because I love reading captions on people’s photos. If you get this blog by email and you’re not seeing the photo captions I’m sorry 😞 I don’t know how to solve this problem… yet. But in the meantime you might want to try getting the emails from mail chimp by visiting the blog directly at… www.maireadhennessy.com and clicking the Sign me Up link there❤️
The rains came and the heatwave is gone. And normal service can resume. I don’t know what happens to me but I can’t function in full heat. If it wasn’t for the box of ice creams Denis bought in Silves, I think I’d be writing this from Greystones.
Tiles outside the public toilets in Óbidos
In other good news… We found a tour in Porto and we’ll be doing that tomorrow. I’m looking forward to the food, pictures of the food, ways to cook the food and normal (for spring in Portugal) weather.
The palace at Mafra
To bring you up to date, we decided to scoot past Lisboa (Lisbon) and head for Mafra, Peniche and Óbidos and if we did nothing else these three places would provide enough photos for the rest of our time away.
Tiny view of the palace…
Mafra has a beautiful well kept huge palace which was closed on Monday when we were there but it’s still impressive from the outside. We visited the palace in 2018 and here’s a link https://maireadhennessy.com/2018/03/15/i-like-an-apple/
And another
Peniche turned out to be not where we were at all! We were at Ferrel. Not as pretty a name but a very beautiful place… the app we are using tells us the best places to park the van. And so we follow the directions blindly. And we stopped and took some pictures and it was very nice and then we looked across the water to a very built up place and THAT was Peniche. I do prefer Ferrel.
Can you see the big white buildings on the extreme right? That’s Peniche…
And Ferrel has surfboards for rent. As you can imagine we were very tempted but we drove on to Óbidos and wow! This is an intact medieval town, a bit like Carcassonne but less commercial. Gorgeous narrow streets and a huge wall running around the outside. Lots of souvenir shops, cafes and restaurants. And bonus, free parking for motorhomes.
Surfboards for rent in Ferrel
We sat with coffee in the shade for a while and walked in the sun for a while and then drove onto a campsite with NO shade. This was the hottest day, I was ready to go back home on a plane but there were ice creams in the freezer and beans on toast for dinner so I reconsidered.
Impressive Óbidos from the road
The thing about going on these trips is how do we ever know where we’re going or what it will be like? Sure we can revisit places but they’re never the same or we’re not the same. All we can do is trust that things will work out in the end and remember to save some ice cream for the hottest day…
Lots of Oranges
I’ll grab a picture of a map so you can get an idea where these places are located. I’m guessing you’re missing the maps (maybe you’re not?) but the problem is maps are owned by whoever makes them (or pays for them to be made?) and Facebook blocked me after the last one. So I either start drawing them myself (could try…) or I slip one in the odd time. It’s not really satisfactory, I know.
Shopping in Óbidos
Well now that I’ve produced my own (not to scale or accurate) map of Portugal I can see why the other map makers might want to keep me from copying…
Travel stories 