If this is your first visit…

If this is your first visit to the blog, Welcome!

(That’s me back in 2010 when we travelled by motorbike)

My name is Mairead Hennessy and I write about travelling with my husband, Denis. We live in Greystones, Co. Wicklow, Ireland. Since 2015 our vehicle and accommodation has been our motorhome, Ruby. Before that we travelled by motorbike and stayed in AirBnB’s.

(This was my view on the bike)

I remember the exact moment we started to think travelling for bigger chunks of time was possible… It was 2001, we were both 40, we were in Paris, we had two children (13 and 10) and we had left them at home. No, not alone, both of our mother’s were taking turns minding them for a week. (This might be a good place to express gratitude to our Mammies. Thank you, Mammies!)

(Here’s Denis and me France 2017. Photo credit: John Newman)

We were sitting at a pavement cafe on the Champs-Élysées sipping coffee and watching stylish French people go by. I saw a small (low powered) scooter and I said to Denis, didn’t you always want to get a motorbike when you grew up? (I should have been more careful but I was full of the joys of a week in Paris with no commitments and he really did love motorbikes when he was 18). I had seen a scooter and said motorbike. He heard motorbike and (in his mind) saw a BMW 650. It was too late when I realised my mistake, he was never going to go for the scooter…

(Bikes get the best spot on a ferry – right next to the exit!)

It took seven years but in 2008 Denis had his motorbike, a touring one so in August 2010 we travelled around France for a month and I blogged. Since then each year we travel and blog. We can do this because Denis works as we go – he writes apps for iPhones.

(Now we travel by motorhome. Her name is Ruby)

At the moment (September 2018) we are in France. I have put a few links below to help you find the beginning blog for each period of travel. If you want to get new blog posts delivered directly to your email click (or tap) on the Sign me Up! link somewhere on this page. If you have any questions or comments or you’d like encouragement to start your own travelling you can reach me at mairead@hennessynet.com.

All is well, Mairead.

The Most Recent Trips:

Portugal via France and Spain 2022

France by Motorhome September 2018

Portugal via France and Spain by Motorhome February 2018

In the beginning:

First trip France by Motorbike August 2010

France by Motorbike  2011

Italy by Motorbike 2013

France by Car 2013

Prague, Krakow, Budapest by Train and Plane 2014

A week in Ireland Motorbike 2015

First Motorhome Trip France 2015

Trip to Portugal 2016

Wales, England, Scotland 2016

France September 2016

Portugal February 2017

France July 2017

Portugal February 2018

France September 2018

Making Hay When the Sun Shines…

(Wildflowers… or maybe you can’t call them wild when they are purposefully planted?)

It’s lashing rain with grey clouds today which makes me so glad I took yesterday off to enjoy a beautiful day in a beautiful place. We have moved from the pretty town surrounded by the Champagne vineyards to a aire in the countryside. It is bright green underfoot and overhead and the only sounds (besides other motorhome people) are birds.

(Look at those healthy nettles!)

I didn’t take yesterday off completely – I washed the windows! I was delighted with my work until wasps started visiting us, I suppose we did smell good. Luckily I bring night lights and citronella essence on every trip so I lit the candles and put a few drops into the melted wax. The wasps left. So I can definitely recommend it.

(Can you see the cow?)

This aire is very like one we visited in the Netherlands last year, in that it has everything we might need and is very well maintained and beautifully kept. There’s a toilet and shower, electricity and water – in and out, rubbish and recycle bins, a communal seating area under cover, where I’m now sitting writing, a washing machine and a dryer. It is privately owned and monsieur comes around in the evening to collect €7.00 for parking and €2.50 for electricity (use of the washing machine and dryer cost extra.)

(The church, the covered market and the mayor’s house in town)

The town is 1km away along a grassy path. Where there’s a Boulanger, two cafes, a hairdressers (I am building the courage to have my hair cut at a french hairdressers… communication is very important but never more so than when a misunderstanding can mean too much of your hair has landed on the floor…)  an old church, a covered market (open on Wednesdays) a tourist office and the mayor’s house. On the other side of town a further 1km there’s a supermarket with car wash which we definitely need as we were very good about not washing the van during the hose pipe ban but that has ensured we are possibly the grubbiest van in France. Maybe the rain will help.

(The path to town)

There’s a stream running through the aire and the owners have planted small groves of wildflowers on the banks between the trees while nature has planted a grove of nettles. You know in someone else’s garden nettles are very appealing. They look like they are bursting with green health and you just can’t ignore them… because of the whole stinging issue. You have to be hyper aware near nettles – not a bad complaint. Plus, they make great tea… if you can pick them. Anyway, I was contemplating the nettles when I noticed something moving on the other side of the stream, a huge (really, huge!) cow, rusty-red coloured with enormous horns (really, enormous!) and long hair. Yes, he (or she) had long hair. I took a photo but was too far away to get a clear picture. Maybe there’ll be an opportunity for a better shot when the rain stops this afternoon.

From our green and wet field in France, Mairead.

A Little Walking Tour

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(There are little route markers on the ground marking the way)

We’re still here in the car park of the pretty town and today after coffee I went to visit the tourist office. We had seen signs describing different buildings as we walked to and from the van and I wondered if there might be a walking tour booklet. There was… two in fact. I choose the Between Vineyards and Orchards Route and set off with my camera.

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(Here’s the house where Napoleon slept on the 9th of February 1814)

That’s when I realised we were staying in a very prestigious area. Napoleon himself stayed just across the square from our parking spot, if I lean out the front driver’s window I can see the front door. It was a long time ago but as they say, if it’s good enough for Napoleon… The tour then took me up a hill and outside the town and into some Champagne vineyards with lovely views.

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(View from the vineyards)

I was completely on my own up there with just some small animal rustling coming from a forest of trees beside the path. I’d like to think squirrels. In case it was something less sweet I kept walking and came to the orchard section of the route. These were small apple groves behind fences. One of the trees had a ladder leaning against it, I suppose it’s harvest time but there was no one about.

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(This healthy looking plant is making Champagne juice!)

Then the route took me back into town via a narrow passageway between two houses leading to a lane with a tiny canal that had been built in the Middle Ages to divert water from the river Le Grand Morin that flows outside the town, in order to power flour mills. Canal is probably the wrong word for it, it is probably only two foot wide where I saw it but I checked out Google Maps and it was long, well, long to have been dug out by hand (probably.)

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(The friendly lady and the Comte’s house)

By now it was close to noon and getting hot so I found some shade. I was waiting trying to cool down when a friendly lady passing asked me if I was looking for something. In French. I explained (in French) that I was doing a great tour of the town and she pointed out that the house I was standing in front of was the birthplace of the Comte de Orleans. So I took a picture of the house with the friendly lady standing in front of it to mark the occasion when I had an interesting conversation in French!

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(The vineyards stretch into the next village)

No, unfortunately I do not know who the Comte of Orleans is, he wasn’t mentioned in my guide but that’s not the important bit…

Adieu, Mairead.

On a Schedule

(There’s an area for campers on the left of this car park, we’re on the extreme left)

We’ve moved on again, just an hour south to a pretty little town. The aire is in the market square and if we’re still here on Friday night we may turn into traders because the whole place becomes a market on Saturday morning. Which would be a nice thing to see… so long as we’re not accidentally parked in the middle of it! I suppose we could sell tea and coffee? And I have been making cards… although I might need more than eight… unless they’re not popular… ok stop, we’ll be gone by Friday.

(The church bell chimes every hour)

We’ve got into a bit of a routine this week which is very pleasant. Sometimes when I’m stuck in a rut I dream about having no routine at all but it turns out not to be as attractive as I thought. For the first week before I found one I was sleepy all the time and that’s no fun. Now I set the alarm for 7am, hop out of bed to turn it off (it’s on the table overnight so I am not tempted to turn it off and turn over for another snooze – I have been there…) get dressed and start my meditation.

(It might be autumn…)

Twenty minutes later (well, twenty if I’m very good, ten if I good-ish) it’s time for breakfast. As always I’ve brought two bags of Flahavans porridge from home and that’s what I have every morning with nuts and seeds. By that time it’s almost 8am and Denis is up so we lock all the cupboards, turn off the gas, roll in the step and drive off. Within the hour we are parking up for the day. There’s room then in the schedule to find a café and have a real French coffee or we make an Irish/ French one. After coffee I’m off to find pictures and Denis is off to work.

(Love French shutters)

There’s time for me to get some work done before it’s lunchtime, which we usually make ourselves. By 2pm it’s back to work for Denis and I start the blog. When that’s done it’s on to crafting. I’ve brought just enough supplies to keep me satisfied but not enough to confuse me. What I mean by that is if I have so many supplies I can’t decide which one to do I’ll hop from one to the other, not quite finishing anything. Lately I’m very interested in finishing.

(My ceramic white buttons are a work in progress, next step gluing on clasps)

So I’m concentrating on card-making (small enough to fit on a lap tray) and mixed media journaling (messy enough to get me out of my head) and pin-on ceramic buttons (to sell for a charity project.) After an hour I’m ready for reading and planning work projects which brings us up to dinnertime. Dinner’s usually around 7pm.

Right, it’s 3.30pm, time for crafts! Mairead.

We’re in Thierry’s House!

(Cute house in Clères)

We’ve arrived at a town called Château Thierry, I don’t think it’s our Thierry… unless he’s keeping his Château in France a secret? We haven’t seen the actual Château yet, we don’t know what size it is or even if it’s still standing.

(Tiny library in Clères)

The aire on the other hand is great. There’s little hedges around the pitches (€7) and electricity (€2) and there’s even a toilet and shower. It’s located right beside the river (which might be where the biting insects live…)

(Bullrushes in a picnic park in Clères. Yes, there’s a park with picnic tables, some covered. Plus, very well kept and supplied toilets! Thank you, France!)

And there’s free WiFi! Well sort of. If you stand by the fence near the McDonalds you can have their WiFi for free! Yes it’s beside a very fancy McDonalds with colorful art on the walls, book shelves with books and comfy armchairs with sockets to charge your devices! We bought a coffee and even that was good. Denis has his eye on a blue cheese and bacon burger for dinner. Don’t judge us…

(Flowers everywhere in Clères)

There’s a cycle path beside the river so I may head in this afternoon if it gets a bit cooler. (Oh forgot to tell you, the weather had been magnificent since we started moving south. In fact a little too magnificent – we’re roasted in the middle of the day, but the up side of that is we’re making tonnes of electricity!) Unfortunately, the town itself doesn’t get a great score with reviewers so I’m not promising pictures, fortunately, I still have some left over from beautiful Clères.

Powered by the sun and McDonald’s WiFi from Thierry’s Château, Mairead.

Galette, Butterfly and Bee

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(This crêpere has had a licence to trade since 1941 – that was during the second world war!)

It’s Sunday and a travel day for us. We are still on route to see Nancy and have arrived in another pretty aire. I tell you about it tomorrow but I have photos to share from yesterday for now. It was lunch time when we left the zoo so we decided to do what the French do – have lunch. By that I mean have our main meal in the middle of the day and since we had saved on the cost of entry to the zoo we were practically getting that for free too… does it show that I never did accountancy?

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(I love the blue)

The cafe I called into on the previous day was also a crepére so we stopped there and had a look at the menu. One of the galettes (which is a wholemeal flour savoury pancake) that caught my eye was called La Bray Normandie with apple, Neufchâtel, ham and mushrooms. I wondered aloud what Neufchâtel might be and a young girl sitting at the table beside us told me! I couldn’t help overhearing, it’s a cheese, local to Normandy and it’s produced in the shape of a heart! I love hearts!

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(Here’s the butterfly)

Our translator was from Bulgaria with perfect English and as far as I would recognise, perfect French. She has been living and working in Paris for the past five years. She and her boyfriend love this area of Normandy are were on a visit for the weekend. She described Neufchâtel cheese saying it was like camembert but not as strong and when her lunch came she offered a taste of her boyfriends cheese sauce because it was camembert… and it was good. Her boyfriend was French (and very generous with his chips and cheese sauce) and had visited Connemara. He loved it and of course we told them how much we loved France.

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(…and a bee)

And when my galette arrived it was the best I’ve ever had. The apple was slightly mushy and brown and it worked perfectly with the cheese and ham and mushrooms and the pancake itself wasn’t too dry or too thick, it was just right. I didn’t stop eating until there was nothing left on my plate.. so no picture. (Reminder to self: take a pause to savour your lunch.)

I’ll be looking out for that Neufchâtel in the shape of a heart, Mairead.

The beautiful animal park in Cléres

(The pink Flamingos and some random ducks)

I mentioned yesterday that there is a zoo here in Cléres and today we went on a visit. As it’s France, of course this would not be an ordinary zoo, this is a beautiful compact bird and animal park in the grounds of a château with it’s own Gothic castle and the remains of a medieval keep. And one more thing to thank France for – there was no entry charge today! Don’t know why. The zoo was set up over 100 years ago by Monsieur Jean Delacour. Seemingly he was a famous ornithologist (had to look it up: interested in birds) who worked for zoos around Europe and the US. His family was rich so… he got a château and started taking care of birds and animals.

(Even without the animals this is a beautiful park)

The majority of the birds and animals run (or waddle or bounce) free in the unfenced paddocks and seem unafraid of the humans who are very well-behaved walking along the paths and staying off the grass. Well they were mostly unafraid but I got in the way of three young antelopes, called black bucks, who were trying to cross a bridge and they looked very worried. I stayed very still and eventually they bounced off on their way. It really looked like they bounced, you know like when sheep jump over fences in cartoons?

(I have no idea what this guy is called, but he was munching away at bugs on his tree trunk when I took this. He’s about the size of a hamster with a long tail)

My favourite animal was the Red Panda, which looks like a cross between a fox and a teddy bear. Like the black and white Panda the red one has an extra bone in it’s wrist that helps it grab bamboo shoots making it adorable… A close second favourite was the Emu, his feathers look like hair with a parting running down the center of his back while his feet are very prehistoric looking.

(Here’s the Red Panda, can you see how he holds the bamboo branch? Awww!)

Up at the château there’s a pretty garden filled with flowers that I love. As I was taking picture after picture of blooms, one nicer than the next a butterfly caught my eye. He was perched on a big flower head and didn’t notice me walk round and round getting shots of him. I must have been there for 10 minutes and he was still there when we left.

(This is a terrible shot but I wanted you to see how strange it looks… it’s part of the Emu’s foot – two of his three toes to be precise. His entire foot is about the size of my hand)

I’ll send you the flower and butterfly pictures tomorrow,  Mairead.

Grey Day by the Seaside

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(Misty rain between here and the chalk cliff)

It’s kinda grey here in Normandy today. We’ve moved along and are by the sea at a place called Veulettes Sur Mer and it started raining. It didn’t stop me from making my way across the road to the beach to get some pictures but even they are a bit grey. It’s a day for taking out the crafts and turning on the heater.

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(Here’s the sea front and on the right across the road you can see the parking area for camper vans. the red brick building on the extreme right is the toilet block)

Also took a picture of our aire for today, it isn’t as pretty as the last one but it does have toilets. No freebies though because of the location (see photo) the cost is €7 per night and on a sunny day it would be ideal. The rain is due to stop in the afternoon so maybe ideal is on the way.

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(That’s the town under the cliff)

To be fair the weather has been mainly warm and completely dry, I just checked in my pockets and found a receipt from Juno Beach so that’s the last time I wore heavy jeans – six days ago. I will stop noticing the grey and begin noticing the historic value of jeans pockets.

Oh brilliant I found a euro! Mairead.

Cycling to Honfleur

(Lots of boats, tall houses and restaurants in Honfleur)

And now we’re in Honfleur, a very pretty big-ish French town with a port. Well to be precise… we are 40 minutes walk from Honfleur, under the motorway that bypasses Honfleur and beside a small French town called La Riviere-Saint-Sauveur. If that’s a mouthful for you, you’ll understand why I fell asleep when we got here. I think I was tired. By 8pm I was drinking tea, reading a book with my favourite quilt around me and I was ready to go back to bed.

(Nice!)

Then Ian from Ireland arrived. He was telling us he’s been here for a few weeks or maybe it was months and then he started to tell us stories about his life. Like, amazing stories, stuff you might make up but you wouldn’t put in the same book because no one would believe it was real. He’s coming to visit us tonight again so I’ll ask him if I can share with you. As it happens he is writing a book and he has a blog. I’ll find out the details tonight for you.

(Love French windows and balconies)

In between the telling of the stories he told us Honfleur was a beautiful place and just a 15 minute cycle. He must have spotted our bikes on the back and not realised they are just for decoration. (No of course they work.) So this morning we took down the bikes and followed his directions to Honfleur and wouldn’t you know we’d hardly gone two minutes and there he was on the other side of the road cycling towards us. We asked where the bicycle lane was (he’d mentioned one last night) and he said, “no you’ll be grand on the dual carriageway the cars in France are used to bikes!” Well it was ego alone that kept me going forward but when he was out of sight I searched and searched for a bicycle path and there was bits and pieces of a quiet road along the route. So I was on and off the bike climbing over fences and losing Denis. He, Denis, by the way has become very good at the  French mannerism of a loud sigh while tilting the head back, lifting the shoulders and turning his palms to the sky. He uses it to complain when I lose him. Luckily he can’t do it while holding the handlebars, so we’re still talking.

(No we didn’t)

Needless to say it took longer than the promised 15 minute cycle but we did eventually arrive in Honfleur and it is very beautiful.  I forgot my camera but I took pictures with my phone until the battery died. The journey back was a lot quicker as I came to realise the French do seem to be used to bikes and gave us a wide berth, especially as I wobble a little.

I’m off for another little lie down to get ready for tonight’s stories, Mairead.